Picking a floor isn't something you do every day. What color is pretty? What installation pattern do I want for my floor? Is it possible to combine my wood floor with underfloor heating? All questions this website gives you answers to. Do you prefer a personal consult about your wood flooring project? Please, visite the showroom or schedule an appointment. We will take all the time you need for a personal advice. Ask us all the questions you want about wood flooring and we will advise you properly.
GLUING WOOD FLOORBOARDS DIRECTLY TO THE SUBFLOOR
This method, in combination with an engineered floor with a 4 mm oak top layer on 12 mm birch plywood, only gives a resistance (Rc value) of 0.09. This product is available in floorboards in various widths, many color finishes for straight, chevron or herringbone installation patterns. With this method you can enjoy your wood floor with underfloor heating for many decades. In addition, this method is also very suitable for rooms with large spans. With this method, the parquet floors (12/3, 16/4 or 20/6 *) is glued directly to the primed floor.
PROPERTIES OF THIS INSTALLATION METHOD
- Sounds just like the subfloor (concrete, wood), reducing the so-called clogs.
- Not demountable.
- The floor is based on a very stable construction.
- The application is suitable for sand cement, anhydrite, tiles, whether or not combined with underfloor heating.
- Not applicable to a wood, cork or linoleum work floor.
- The expansion and shrinkage of the floorboards is very limited.
- Method is more suitable for the experienced handyman.
- Thickness of the total floor (including primer) is 12mm for product "Floortje", 16mm for "Vincent" or 20mm for "Robin".
- 9/3: layered plank of total 10 mm thick with 3 mm hardwood top layer, "Floortje"
- 16/4: layered board of 15 mm thick with 4 mm hardwood top, "Vincent"
- 20/6: 20 mm thick layered board with 6 mm hardwood top layer, "Robin"
'A direct glued floor moves less due to the direct adhesion to the underfloor.'
GLUING A FLOOR DIRECTLY
- Of course we can install and finish the floor for you. If you prefer to do these tasks yourself, you can do this by following these steps:
- Clean the subfloor of dust, stucco and glue residues.
- Apply a primer or equivalent product with a furnace roller, use approximately 250 grams per m2, drying time 1 -2 hours, after which you must start immediately with gluing and installing the engineered wood floorboards.
- Let the floor parts stagger at least 40 cm in relation to each other to create the so-called irregular bond pattern.
- Glue the layered parquet floors with 2 component adhesive (MK 90 or equivalent product).
- Mix the glue with a mixer with 1 bottle of added harder per bucket (air temperature between 15 and 18ºC, mix for a minimum of 2 minutes).
- Divide the glue with a new glue comb (100 grams) in width and the length of the area where the floor part is to be glued to the primed subfloor. In any event, do not apply glue on a larger area so that the glue is already allowed to dry.
- Never make more than 1 bucket at the same time!
- Use about 1.2 kg of the glue per m2.
- Use the applied glue within 45 minutes.
- Saw a spare part of 20 cm from a floorboard, with a groove on one side.
- Apply the glued floor part with help of the spare part.
- Stand on the floorboard so that it is well pressed into the glue.
PLACING THE LAST ROWS
- First, saw the last rows to size before making the glue.
- Use at a residual area of <3 m2 a small bucket of two-component adhesive (= 3.5 kg).
- For the last job, place the part on the part of the row next to it.
- Take a piece of the sawn floorboard and place it with the tongue against the wall.
- Then draw on the plank where it should be sawn and then cut slightly next to the line so that you have a minimum of 15 mm expansion.
- Do not walk over or work on the floor during the 12-hour drying time.
- After the drying time, remove the spacers from the beginning.
- Finish the floor as desired with oil or laquer.